Aida vs Linen vs Evenweave: Which Cross Stitch Fabric is Right for You?
One of the questions I get asked most often is about fabric. Should I stick with Aida? Is linen really that difficult? What even is evenweave? If you have found yourself standing in a craft store or scrolling through online shops feeling confused by all the options, you are not alone.
The truth is, there is no single "best" fabric for cross stitch. Each type has its own character, and the right choice depends on your project, your experience level, and honestly, your personal preference. Let me walk you through each one so you can make an informed decision.
The Three Main Fabric Types
Before we dive into comparisons, let me give you a quick overview of what makes each fabric unique.
Aida
Aida is the most recognizable cross stitch fabric. It has a distinctive grid pattern with clear holes where your needle goes. The weave creates obvious squares, making it easy to count stitches and place your needle in exactly the right spot.
Common counts: 11, 14, 16, 18 (stitches per inch)
Made from: Cotton, sometimes cotton blends
Pros
- Easy to count stitches
- Clear holes guide needle placement
- Widely available
- Affordable
- Great for beginners
Cons
- Stiff, blocky appearance
- Grid can show through sparse designs
- Limited color options
- Does not drape well
- Less "heirloom" feel
Linen
Linen is woven from flax fibers and has been used for embroidery for centuries. Unlike Aida, linen threads are not perfectly uniform, which gives the fabric beautiful natural texture. You typically stitch "over 2 threads" on linen, meaning each cross spans two fabric threads.
Common counts: 28, 32, 36, 40 (threads per inch, divide by 2 for stitch count)
Made from: Flax (100% linen or linen blends)
Pros
- Beautiful natural texture
- Soft, elegant drape
- Takes dye beautifully
- Heirloom quality
- Perfect for primitive style
Cons
- Requires counting threads
- Natural variations can confuse beginners
- More expensive
- Threads can be slubby
- Steeper learning curve
Evenweave
Evenweave is the middle ground between Aida and linen. Like linen, you stitch over 2 threads, but the threads are perfectly uniform, making counting much easier. It offers the softer look of linen with more consistency.
Common counts: 25, 28, 32 (threads per inch, divide by 2 for stitch count)
Made from: Cotton, cotton blends, or synthetic fibers
Pros
- Uniform, easy to count
- Softer than Aida
- Good stepping stone to linen
- Many color options
- Smooth, consistent finish
Cons
- Lacks linen's character
- Still requires over 2 technique
- Can look "too perfect"
- Less widely available than Aida
- More expensive than Aida
Understanding "Over 2" Stitching
This is where many stitchers get confused, so let me explain it clearly.
On Aida, each cross stitch fills one square of the grid. Simple. On linen and evenweave, there are no squares, just a weave of horizontal and vertical threads. When you stitch "over 2," your cross spans 2 of these threads in each direction.
This means:
- 28 count linen over 2 = 14 stitches per inch (same as 14 count Aida)
- 32 count linen over 2 = 16 stitches per inch (same as 16 count Aida)
- 36 count linen over 2 = 18 stitches per inch (same as 18 count Aida)
You can also stitch "over 1" on high count fabrics for very fine detail work, but this is less common and requires good eyesight or magnification.
Quick Conversion
To find the equivalent Aida count for linen or evenweave stitched over 2, simply divide the thread count by 2. Our fabric calculator handles this automatically.
Side by Side Comparison
| Feature | Aida | Linen | Evenweave |
|---|---|---|---|
| Difficulty | Easiest | Most challenging | Moderate |
| Texture | Grid pattern visible | Natural variations | Smooth, uniform |
| Stitch Method | Over 1 square | Over 2 threads | Over 2 threads |
| Drape | Stiff | Soft, flowing | Medium soft |
| Price | Budget friendly | Premium | Mid range |
| Best For | Beginners, kits | Primitive, heirloom | Transitioning stitchers |
| Takes Dye | Okay | Beautifully | Well |
| Fractional Stitches | Difficult | Easy | Easy |
Quick Recommendation Guide
Which Fabric Should You Choose?
Why I Love Linen for Primitive Cross Stitch
My Personal Take
I design primitive patterns, and for me, linen is part of the aesthetic. The natural texture, the way it takes tea and botanical dyes, the soft drape when finished. There is something about stitching on linen that feels connected to the craft's history. That said, I started on Aida like most people, and I still use it for certain projects. There is no wrong choice, only what serves your vision for the piece.
Linen has natural variations called "slubs" where the thread is thicker or thinner. Some stitchers find this frustrating, but for primitive and folk art designs, these imperfections add character. They make your piece look handmade in the best possible way.
Linen also ages beautifully. A piece stitched on linen twenty years ago will have a lovely patina that Aida simply cannot replicate. If you are creating something meant to be passed down, linen is worth considering.
Tips for Transitioning from Aida to Linen
If you are comfortable on Aida and curious about linen, here is how to make the switch easier:
Start with Evenweave
Evenweave teaches you the over 2 technique without the added challenge of natural thread variations. Once you are comfortable, linen will feel much more approachable.
Choose a Lower Count First
28 count linen (14 stitches per inch over 2) has the same stitch size as 14 count Aida but with larger, easier to see threads. Save the 36 and 40 count for later.
Use Good Lighting
Thread counting requires more visual attention than Aida's obvious holes. A daylight lamp makes a significant difference.
Try a Small Project First
Do not commit to a large sampler as your first linen project. Start with something small like an ornament or a simple motif. See how you like working with the fabric before investing weeks of stitching time.
Expect a Learning Curve
Your first few rows might feel awkward. That is completely normal. By the time you finish a small project, the over 2 technique will feel natural.
What About Specialty Fabrics?
Beyond the big three, you might encounter:
- Hardanger fabric with 22 count, often used for pulled thread work
- Lugana a popular evenweave brand, soft and easy to work with
- Jobelan another evenweave option with slight sheen
- Belfast a mid weight linen, very popular for samplers
- Edinburgh lighter weight linen for finer work
These are all variations within the three main categories. Once you understand Aida, linen, and evenweave, the specialty fabrics make much more sense.
Fabric and Finished Size
Remember that fabric count affects your finished size. The same pattern will be:
- Larger on lower count fabric (11 count Aida)
- Smaller on higher count fabric (18 count Aida or 36 count linen)
If a pattern specifies 14 count Aida and you want to use linen, choose 28 count and stitch over 2 for the same finished size. Want it slightly smaller? Use 32 count linen over 2.
Calculate Your Fabric Size
Our free calculator handles fabric count conversions and tells you exactly how much fabric to cut.
Open Fabric CalculatorMaking Your Decision
Here is my honest advice: if you are just starting out, begin with Aida. Learn the basics without fighting your materials. Enjoy the process of learning to stitch.
Once you have a few projects under your belt and feel curious about other options, try a small evenweave or linen project. You might love it and never look back, or you might decide Aida suits you perfectly. Both are valid choices.
The "best" fabric is the one that makes you want to keep stitching. Everything else is just preference.
Happy stitching!
- Marieta
Related Articles
- How to Calculate Fabric Size with formulas for any count
- Beginner's Guide to Cross Stitch for those just starting
- Botanical Linen Dyeing to create unique hand dyed fabric
- Primitive Cross Stitch Guide for the rustic aesthetic